4th August 2008

From Clermont Ferrand to Nontron, Dordogne

We’ve not had internet access for a while so photos of Croatia, Italy and France should appear later today.

We got up earlier than ever today, ate our breakfast buffet and headed off for the Puy de Dôme to get a view of the volcanic landscape.  We were passed by 3 cool looking gendarmes on motorbikes.  They came up quietly beside us whilst we were waiting at traffic lights and overtook us which made us jump.  Later on we waved at some bikers approaching us and it was only when they’d passed by that we realised we’d waved at a couple of policemen.   They waved back as if it was entirely normal.  In the UK other bikers will nod at you as they pass but in Europe they prefer to wave. 

As we got to the foot of the ancient volcano, there were hardly any cars around so we had fun racing each other up the mountain and I practiced cornering and Tris gave me tips, (criticised my crap driving).  As we neared the top we were driving through rolling clouds until visibility had diminished to only metres.  We realised we’d paid to see a view of cloud at the top and had a laugh about it, (see photos!).  We persevered in taking misty looking photos and on our way down the clouds began to part, treating us to stunning views across the Auvergne.  We left a shell as part of the Global Feasts Project, (see news page for details), in a small cave half way down the Puy de Dôme then we headed off towards my parents in the south west near Périgueux.  The roads were quiet and I realised how much more confidence I’ve gained at driving since beginning the trip.  I grew increasingly excited as I began to recognise place names and memories popped into my head of the 7 years I spent living in France.  

We arrived about 2pmish and rode up to the house beeping our horns.  It was good to arrive at my second home, France.  Tris and I left the bikes and I drove us in an old Peugeot 204 sports car to a nearby village, Savignac de Nontron, where my parents used to live.  I mastered 1st, 2nd and 4th gears with the gear stick located on the dash board but third gear escaped me which made for a jerky trip around the hair pin bends.  We had a beer at the local bar where one of the villagers, Aileen, remembered me and we had a chat about village life. 

Later people arrived at my parents for food and drinks and we sat up late under a warm, star filled sky swatting mosquitoes and talking Breast Quest talk and having a few laughs about it.  We talked about the joys of having to live in close proximity 24/7 with someone you barely know.  Two friends handed me a cheque for 150 pounds for the charities, (there is no pound sign on this French keyboard!), which I was really touched by.  It reminded me of why we are doing this mad trip and makes it so worthwhile.  I caught up with some French friends and felt a bit sad that I wouldn’t have time to visit others.  We made plans to go swimming in a lake, horse riding, visit the local town of Brantôme, share an apéritif with Régine and Régis, (the local campsite owners), and a meal with other friends at a local restaurant, knowing we would only have time for half of all that.